What typically happens at the older campgrounds is larger rigs come in needing more power and the campgrounds do not upgrade which causes these issues. I am replacing the radio in my Rockwood TT. For some reason I am not getting a constant 12 VDC on the wire coming from the converter to the radio location. There is a red light at the location of the 15 amp fuse in the panel that glows when connected to the tester to read voltage.
This is the same wire the previous radio was connected to before removal. What am I missing. Hi, Larry. Thank you for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your radio issue.
If that light is on, volt power is not going through the fuse to the connecting wire and ultimately the radio? Take a test light and ground the alligator clip to a metal component on the distribution center and touch each metal point of the top of the fuse. The light should come on both sides, if not, the fuse or wiring is bad.
Hi, James. If this is your fourth converter replacement, you need to stop swapping parts and find the problem! My first question is what symptoms did you experience initially that caused the first converter replacement? The only thing the converter does is charge the batteries which is on the volt DC side so turning on the microwave or the electric heater should have nothing to do with it?
Lead acid batteries must be charged every month with a multistage charge that is a high voltage initial Bulk charge that boils the acid and breaks up sulfation, then an equalizing and float charge. To check your converter, use a multimeter and place the probes on the positive and negative post of the battery. Plug the unit in or start the generator and see if it goes from My suggestion, get a Battery Minder from Northern Tool instead of the archeic converter and just shut off the existing one and use the Battery Minder which will condition your batteries and last much longer.
It appears that my converter does not always engage when plugged into shore power. If I turn the appliance off, the DC drops out. The converter eventually engages although it takes numerous attempts with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and turning appliances on and off.
Any further ideas? We have a Frigidaire Galley refrigerator in our rv. It stopped working again today. Is there anything we could check ourselves??? This is a good one. I have a Attitude Eclipe fk toyhauler. My problem started about a year ago when the factory radio would not shut off but no sound would come out. We replaced it with a new Pioneer unit and wired it up exactly like the original. My wife is a Micro mini soldering tech so we used the original plugs and wired all the wires in exactly like the old one they were the same.
I started seeing an issue with the radio about a year ago couple years after we bought the trailer.
The original radio would not turn off but would also do nothing else. We purchased a Pioneer unit and wired it in both according to the old wiring diagram and the Pioneer one they were the same. Seems to me something is putting vac on the yellow wire but not blowing the fuse has me stumped. And, why only on shore power and not on straight dc? We have a 33ft. We use it about 5 months during the summer and winterize it for the winter, disconnecting the battery and storing it at home in a warm, dry basement.
This season, I have noticed that the DC lights are dimmer than they ever have been. Any idea what the problem might be? Do we need a new battery? Thanks for your help. Hi Dianne. Thus the dimmer lights. I would recommend getting a Battery Minder from Northern Tool which will connect to the batteries and send high impact waves into the battery and not only charge, but condition them and they will last longer and hold a charge longer.
You should also use this at the camper while connected for the summer as your typical converter will not have the multistage charge and your batteries will sulfate. I would suggest getting the Battery Minder and try it for a few months to see if your battery comes back to a better operating capacity, if not, you will need a new battery. Another item I would install is LED lights as they will draw 10 times less battery power and your battery will again last longer!
Not sure why your lights get brighter when you use the blow dryer since it uses volts from a completely separate source, unless you are not plugged in to shoreline and when you do to use the blow dryer the lights get brighter which means the converter has kicked on and charging the batteries…brighter lights.
I accidentally ran the microwave in my fleetwood pace arrow, while my air conditioner was on. It was on generator power. Now neither the microwave nor the air conditioner will turn on. Also, none of the plugs will work. Not even to charge a phone. Weve checked all the fuses and circuit breaker, everything seems fine except for one fuse.
It was a 15 and said it was fir the aux starter. We put a new fuse in it and the fuse tester is not lighting up green. Im not sure what to do. I dont know how to fibd the converter or anything like that. We are just running the generator and battert.
Hi Shae. A couple of things could have happened, first the generator probably has 2 lines coming off the generator, one going to the distribution center, the other to a back air conditioner if so equipped? There should be 2 circuit breakers on the generator itself for these two lines, check those first.
Next, you will have a main circuit breaker on the distribution center that shuts off all volt power inside the coach and then individual circuit breakers for volt appliances and outlets.
I would also recommend using a multi-meter to verify power coming off them. Then, check in the kitchen or bathroom for the GFCI outlet. I would suspect the GFCI outlet has tripped and they are all dead? Hit the test button and the reset button to see if you get power.
If not, then you have something wrong with the distribution center. We have been trying to get it in shape to travel but… the latest trick is for nothing to work electrically.
When hooked to residential power all that is available is the lighting. All 3 batteries are new and installed correctly. The power converter appears dead. At one point the refrigerator turned on but only briefly.
The water pump worked yesterday but not today. I think I need a new power converter but the unit by Progressive is no longer produced. Any tips, anything else I should try before I try to change out the unit? Hello John, You have several things that could be going on here both volt and volt electrical. When you are connected to a residential source which you indicated, you are probably downsizing to a 10 amp or 15 amp residential plug in which will provide limited volt power and you will run the risk of tripping the residential breaker.
There are several videos on this procedure, however the easiest is to use a non-contact voltage tester after the circuit breaker. The three batteries you referred to are probably 2 6-volt batteries connected in series that are deep cycle and are the house batteries and the third is an automotive battery designed for starting the engine. You may also have a battery disconnect that is off which is usually located in the entrance step area?
I would suggest spending some time going through the tutorials on the site regarding operation of the batteries and appliances, then visit the troubleshooting volt batteries. Do you have DC power to any other interior appliance? When you are plugged into shoreline power, the volt power goes to the distribution center and then to a converter which provides volt DC power to the components through automotive type fuses. Have you checked the fuses? I would first verify volt DC power at the battery, then to the distribution center and each fuse.
You may have a battery disconnect switch that is over ridden when plugged into shoreline? To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your inverter fan cycling, we need the make, model, and year of your inverter. Hello I have a vagabon 32 foot travel camper. Everything was running fine we are hooked up to a generator we also have a battery on board to use when the generator is off we took off the battery the other day to bring it into the house to charge.
Assuming there would be no problem with that 5 hours later when we were turned the heater was not working but the outlets were. After troubleshooting we found that plugging the battery back in worked. But then the battery died and the heater stopped again. How do I specifically test the converter itself? Did I burn up the converter having it run so many 12 volts options without a battery?
I doubt you burned up the converter, rather the battery is required to create a circuit for the volt system? When you are plugged into a volt shoreline connection the converter will sense when the battery goes below When you remove the battery and nothing works, it indicates the converter is only connected to the battery and now you have an open circuit? Some models are wired so the converter can still provide volts to the system without the battery, however it does not appear this is the case with yours?
You should be able to use a multimeter on the battery and plug the system in and see it raise from current charge to a higher voltage coming from the converter.
We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership. Just bought a Winnebago destination….. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your inverter issue, we need the make and model of the inverter. I would start by using a multimeter and check the condition of the batteries. They need to be Then you should be able to measure voltage coming out which evidently is 0?
With the brand and model number we should be able to research if it has a reset sequence as well. I have a Thor Freedom Elite, when connected to shoreline power there is no problems and the inverter says about When off shore power the inverter just shows 3 red lines and the red light is on for fault.
The battery used to charge when the car is running but now its just blank as well. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your inverter issue we need the make, and model of the inverter. It sounds as though you have an issue on the inverter side or even the batteries?
When you are connected to shoreline, the converter or charger is running and showing you the Does your inverter have a reset switch that might have gotten tripped? If you have checked these out, I would get your batteries checked first and then the inverter as this should all be under warranty? When we brought the trailer home, it was connected to 30 AMP service at the house that I had installed for a welder prior to the trailer purchase.
I know that it provides the rated amperage. The problem has also occurred when connected to the post at campgrounds. We have had the trailer plugged in for extensive periods, weeks at the house, but only hours at the campgrounds, when the problem has arisen.
Switching various lights or the refrigerator off would silence the alarm, but when turned back on, the alarm would sound again. I unplugged and reconnected the cord from the post numerous times without success. After leaving the power unplugged for several hours, I was able to plug it back in and everything worked normally for two more days until we departed the campground or weeks at the house.
Our surge protector, Surge Guard , normally shows three green LEDs during these episodes, although once, it did indicate reverse polarity when first reconnected to the house service. I have not found anything unusual at the control panel, but I do suspect that the converter has been replaced, and by someone who may not have known what they were doing.
I say this because the converter was accessed by hacking through the wood on the side of its compartment instead of through the distribution center, and the Molex connector has electrical tape wrapped around it. The shop that physically checked the trailer said that everything worked correctly for them and that it was because the battery was disconnected. I suspect that everything worked correctly for them, as it has for us at times, and they just reconnected the battery, which is a brand new marine model.
The last one I spoke with suggested that it might be an external circuit added by a previous owner. This circuit is to several external lights and is connected directly to the positive battery terminal, interrupted by a 12V automotive switch, and grounded to the frame. The circuit does not presently work, but I have not done any troubleshooting on it. The solid copper grounds, from the converter, in the rear storage compartment, do have corrosion on them due to water entering that compartment as well.
All leaks have been fixed, a new roof installed, etc. First I would suspect your CO detector operates off volt DC power from the house batteries since it will sound the alarm but go off when items are shut down and the batteries are allowed to recharge?
My guess is the battery is probably a discount store battery that is not sufficient for the power demands of an RV?
Probably a group 24 with limited amp hours and is probably already gotten sulfation on the plates due to improper charging? Deep cycle batteries need to be charged with a multistage charge every month or sulfation will form on the plates and not provide the energy storage they were designed for. If the battery is sulfated, it will draw down to volts very quickly which would make the CO detector chirp. Shutting off other lights and such will allow the battery to regenerate somewhat which is why the CO detector shuts off.
Winnebago is using Napa Deep Cycle batteries as the lead plates are thicker, welds are more secure, and they last! Then replace the converter! My husband says the batteries are working, because the pop out will go in and out when we are not plugged in. Any ideas why this would be? My ac was working one min and then its like we are not getting any elec. I have a Heartland Fuel , my 30 amp fuse is tripping when running generator. Appliances on are AC, ceiling fan, radio, lights and skillet.
That should be a standard load. How do I prevent this? We were having issues with our AC not working properly so switched over from 30 amp to 50 amp extension cord. How do I visually determine if we have blown a fuse? Non contact voltage sensor unreliable. Get someone hurt or cause them to damage equipment or start a fire. I have a Horse trailer with a factory conversion.
For the past 17 years it has operated normally in all aspects, Recently while towing I received a warning from the truck that there is a wiring fault and the trailer is disconnected. Although the marker lights, brake lights, etc are all functioning. When I disconnected the trailer from the truck the marker lights were still on. I suspect drawing from the onboard 12 volt battery. The lights finally went out when the battery ran down.
When I connect the V ckt, I get all the running lights, etc. Any recommendations? I suspect a converter replacement required there B-W manufacturing series A model Is the voltage drop a sign of a bad ground?
The outlets in the bedroom always work but the rest of the outlets in the rv work when they feel like it. Can you tell me why the coverter box is getting hot and making noise. When I plug the camper into electric, the lights and fridge settings are flickering and pulsating.
We have a Jakyko Eagle 12 SO, when hooked to power supply the outlets work but when we try to plug in the battery the only thing that comes in is the carbon monoxide detector. The deep cell battery is fully charged and I replace the 4 car type fuses and the color units are all up and appear fine. What should we try next? Is this something in my Solitude or the park power supply?
In a keystone laredo, just arrived in New Orleans from Orlando fl, where everything worked fine. Everything was working fine this past weekend. We had to use electric heaters along with our furnace. Came home, plugged the RV in and I set up our heaters cause of the cold temps we had. Check in the morning and both heaters were dead. Replaced the GFCI, and still no power.
Rest all have v AC. What is going on??? I have a Keystone Montana 5th wheel. We are having problems with the power and cannot find the Battery to check it.
If anyone knows where it is located, I would be forever gratful. On 5th wheels the battery is usually located in the front or side storage compartments. If it is not there, I would check under the stairs and underneath the rest of the RV. Some manufactures would put them in a box that is mounted to the frame and can only be accessed by crawling underneath the unit. It has to have ventilation to the outside, so if in a compartment it would have to have a vent.
If there are no vented compartments, it is most likely under the stairs or mounted on the frame underneath. I hope this helps! We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership. I have power on the two main red and green wires that go to the battery on the right side of the fuse panel. The ones that go directly to the house battery.
Inadvertently shorted out both green and red wires at the battery. Heard a whining sound that increase to a pop sound. Now no power to the furnace. But somehow have power to lights and refrigerator both plugged in and unplug from Shore power. Totally confused no power under any circumstances to furnace those are the only 12 volt electrical appliances.
Also have AC unit works fine plugged in. Totally confused how I can have no power at the fuses but some appliances work anyway. Totally confused trying to get my furnace to work when it works before I shorted out house battery wires with sure power connected to inverter. There could be a couple areas that could have the issue. It is possible the fuse panel was damaged itself. When checking the fuse panel, connect the negative lead to the negative wire coming from the battery.
Then use the positive to check the terminals on the fuse holders, on each side when a fuse is plugged in. If there is no voltage to the furnace fuse terminal then the fuse panel itself has an internal failure and would need replaced. If there is voltage there but not at the furnace you would want to inspect the furnace. If the AC and furnace run off of the same thermostat, that is a good thing. The furnace gets the 12v power from the thermostat. You would want to check the furnace itself next.
This switch will also trip if there is a short or high amp draw going to the furnace. If this switch is OK, check the voltage at the furnace board. There could be a problem with the board itself. Tracing the voltage loss one component at a time is the best thing to do.
You said there was no voltage at the fuse itself so I would double check and make sure that is accurate before proceeding to anything else. Again, if there is not output voltage to the fuse and everything else is still working the fuse panel could still be bad.
You could temporarily move the wire connection from the furnace at the fuse panel and switch it to another fuse and see if it turns on. This will tell you for sure that the fuse panel has a faulty terminal spot. Converter problems. When plug into shore power everything is fine, but when power is disconnected to dc power to the ratching relay to disconnect the batteries for storage.
I own a Jayco Redhawk when I plug into shore power no electrical works. I have an electrical problem. Using just my battery everything works. When I plug into shore power everything stops working. Trip to Big Bend all is fine. We get home bathroom plug and plug to main TV have no power. All other plugs are hot. Any suggestions? If the other outlets on the GFCI circuit are fine, there is most likely a problem with the connection on that outlet or the one that it feeds off of.
There are usually only a few circuits for the outlets so a lot of times they feed off of each other. Where is my Problem? I have taken it to 2 auto shop with no help. They say nothing is wrong should be charging but it not. Lights on pannel says battery drain after 3 or 4 day of being plug into shore power. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Where is it located and how do I access it?
Typically the converter or battery charger in travel trailers are located inside the distribution center as an all in one unit. We will email you a photo of a typical Progressive Dynamics version that is fairly common in most trailers and has the volt circuit breakers and volt fuses for all the appliances, lights, vents and other accessories.
The converter is located to the right which is the vents that allow it to cool. The only way to access the converter is to remove the entire distribution center as they only want certified RV electricians working on them. Some models have a distribution center located in the living area and a separate converter placed somewhere else in the rig as they tend to run hot and have noise from the cooling fan. If your panel does not have vents, then you may have this type of model and the converter would look like the second photo we will email to you.
He was going to go back to the factory and do some research but I have not heard anything yet? The AC to DC converter typically is packaged with the distribution center which has volt circuit breakers and volt DC fuses for the house battery system? Usually the distribution center is placed in an accessible location in a cabinet down by the floor.
Some put it in the bedroom under the mattress in the pedestal. If you have a system where the converter is separate, this is much harder to find as manufacturers will place the converter box in a cabinet under the refrigerator or other cabinetry and screw a cover plate over the opening so it looks like nothing is there. You should be able to plug the shoreline power in and listen for the hum of the fans? I have a Fleetwood Pioneer T I keep shoreline attached during winter.
Last week, when I returned home from work, the running lights were all on. I disconnected the battery. The next night, they came back on. I unplugged the shore line and they went off.
We have an iota ILC series load center and the fan runs continually on How do I locate the fan sensor to see if that is needing replaced or do you have any other ideas as to what might be going on? Am I crazy? Thanks for any help! On my 34 foot fifth wheel when plugged into campsite power my lights, furnace range in power. Lights will go bright then dim then bright again.
The furnace fan slows down and then speeds up. I have replaced the batteries so am stumped. Can you advise please, thanks. I have a Fleetwood Wilderness 5th wheel camper, the converter is bad. Can someone please tell me where it is? When I had no power into the 5th wheel [just purchased it] when hooked up to city power, I found the two 40 amp fuses burned out.
When I try to put new ones in, I get a spark at the fuse box of the converter. When I disconnect the negative terminal of my batteries and then put the fuses into the converter, I get a spark at the negative terminal of the battery when I attempt to connect the 12 volt to the converter and then find the converter fuses blown again.
My wife wants to go boondocking this week. It sounds like you either have reverse polarity in the 12v system or a really bad short.
Does the converter work with the battery being disconnected and the unit plugged into v? Check to make sure the battery is hooked up to the correct terminals, make sure the negative is going to a chassis ground. If that is ok, I would disconnect the battery and check the voltage on the battery itself. It may have reverse polarity coming out of the battery if it was discharged and then re charged when hooked up to the wrong connections.
From there I would check the connections from the converter to the fuse panel, making sure they are correct. Check the connection to the breaker as well. Large sparks indicate large amp draw and if it is high enough to blow the fuse right away, there could be a bad short in the system as well. Is there any tests I can perform to confirm this? Momentary main switch stayed on. Followed the direction in manual disconnected the ground of house battery have no 12 volt power.
The switch may need replaced. They can get stuck and even if it releases, it may happen again. There are many different types and styles of main switches, I will provide a link to some sites that carry a variety of switches. You can always install a different type as well.
I was told when I bought my pop-up recently that it need a battery and converter. I have determined via my battery charger that the battery is dead — needs replacement. So, my question is, if I plug into shore power with the dead battery still connected should the converter do anything? Should lights come on?
Must I have a good battery to get the converter to do anything? Thank you. My unit has a converter Magnetec and inverter Freedom It appears that both can charge batteries. The inverter is external next to batteries.
The converter is under back bed. Unit also has 2 transfer boxes. A 50 Ecco external in cord bin. And a 30 Ecco under bed next to converter.
Yes the converter and inverter can both charge the batteries. The converter takes in the v AC and turns it into 12v DC to operate the fuse panel and all of the 12v components when plugged into an outlet. It is connected to the battery to not only charge it, but it allows the batteries to send voltage to the fuse panel when not plugged into an outlet so you can use lights, slide outs, pump motor etc.
The inverter you have most likely connects to one appliance, like a residential fridge or possible a set of outlets. When plugged into an outlet, it turns off the conversion and just runs off of v coming from the shore cord.
It can also convert the voltage to 12v to charge the battery. This feature can be turned off on the inverter if not needed. The same goes for why there is 2 transfer switches as well. Normally there is only one transfer switch when a generator is installed, you can only have one source of v coming into the RV at a time.
The transfer switch just allows one to come through. You should consult the owners manual for the unit and see why it is set up this way.
They might just give you 2 power cords so you can use any pedestal but normally you can just use an adapter for this. Do you have 3 air conditioners? I am really not sure. If you can provide the make, model and year of your RV I could try to look into why it is set up like this. Yes j bought a 92 Fleetwood wilderness camper. The converter was bad and they took it out so now I need to know what kind of converter I need like as far as what amp converter j need to get thanks….
It can be a little tricky to find out what size converter came with the RV if it was removed. The converters installed at the factory are rated based on what is needed to run everything in the RV without going over the limit. Once you combine the total wattage, divide by You would want to get a converter just above that to allow for extra room as low voltage will cause high amp draw so you always want to be safe.
There is a website that offers a power converter calculator that could help determine what you may need, it would be a good starting point. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
Converter went out bought another converter hooked it up fan ran for a second or two went out. This is the third converter trailer is I had depended on the gas power generator for my power for 6 months then when I tried plugging it into a wall plug with a ground fault interrupt it tripped the interrupt.
I am having problems with the 12 volt system. It would shut down and not come back on. The system works fine. The shut off switch would turn it back on but would not stay on. Really would appreciate your help. Thanks James. It sounds like a problem with the converter. The best thing to do is check the connections going to it and the voltage going to and out of the converter. If the v going in fluctuates, it can cause this issue and the problem is with your shore cord, the buss bar or the outlet you are plugged into.
If there is steady voltage above VAC going to the converter and the 12v coming out fluctuates or is lower than Sometimes this can come down to a loose connection, I have seen this from the converter to the fuse panel and tightening the connection can make everything work again.
Inspecting and testing the voltage to and from the converter is really all you can do. I hope this helps! Every time I use slideouts on batterypower or slippery landing gear ,they stop then restart after cooling. Batteries are fully charged. I think I need new converter, it,s only a 40 watt converter.
I picked up my inverter and found it to be a 24 volt inverter requiring me to have 8 batteries. Please let me know if I need to return this inverter. The generator has less than 15 hours use. Please offer comments and recommendations! The generator runs on LP. When the vehicle is not running, the generator will start but die after a second or two. This may sound like a simple fuel supply issue, but strangely the generator runs perfectly well while the vehicle is running.
In other words, if the engine is running and I start the generator, it happily keeps on running. Additionally, the vehicle engine is not charging the house batteries. The fuses and Breakers are all fine, as far as I can find. I would check the wiring from the generator to the batteries. It should be connected to the house batteries and not the chassis battery?
If it is connected to the chassis battery this would make sense of it working while the engine is running and immediately dies when the engine is not running. The batteries could be connected to the house batteries like they should though and you could have a different problem though. You say that the batteries are not getting a charge while traveling, have you checked the voltage to the batteries while the engine is running?
There could be a charge going to the house batteries but they might not be accepting the charge if they are bad batteries. I would have the batteries charged from a different source and then load tested. Having bad batteries could be the issue that is causing the generator not to work. It would also make since for the AC to shut down the system, it needs a high amp draw and if you have weak or bad batteries the system will shut down. The generator should also be charging the batteries while in use and if there is not voltage left in the batteries after it has been running and traveling, most likely it is bad batteries.
Again, I would have the batteries tested because from everything you have told me it sounds like this should be the issue. I hope it helps!
I need my refrig. No juice going to lights and test panel inside rv except when plugged in to AC outlet. Is there a reset button on thor 4 winds rv? If so where is it located? I would first check to see what the voltage is at the battery when you are plugged into an outlet. It should be between 13vv when plugged in and nothing else is on. If the battery is still reading 9v, then there is a problem with the charging system.
If there is a charge being sent to the battery but it does not accept a charge, the battery would have to be replaced.
If it is, I would then check the fuse panel and make sure the fuse for the charge line is fine. Since you have lights when plugged in your converter should be fine. It just sounds like the battery is not getting a charge.
This is usually caused by a bad connection, blown fuse or bad battery. Make sure to check all connections and especially the chassis ground.
There will be a negative wire attached to the chassis and if this breaks or is loose, it could stop things from working like the charge line. Check all connections at the fuse panel and make sure they are tight as well.
There are some models that use a breaker instead of a fuse and some are automatic resetting while there are some that have a push button to reset them. If you have one of these, they are typically found in the battery compartment. Most will use the fuses though and can be inline or at the main fuse panel.
You will want to get a circuit tester and check the outlets. It is possible there is something wrong with the outlet the shore is plugged into or the adapter being used. It will not tell you if there is an open neutral, open ground, reverse polarity or low voltage like a circuit test would do.
Most will not say the voltage, you will have to use a voltmeter for that. There is the possibility of the incoming wiring being wrong at the transfer switch but typically not likely. There could also be a problem with the shore cord as well. Since everything works fine off of the generator, things from the transfer switch to the panel are correct.
The problem is the v before the transfer switch so either the connections at the switch, shore cord, adapter or the outlet you are plugged into. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested.
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I have a issue with the 12 volt system killing my battery quite fast while being plugged into a v. Even the fan system for the heater will kill the battery which is strange to me. Our Travelmate camper still has the original Progressive Dynamics power converter installed, it is only used to power the interior lights which have all been changed to LED fixtures.
Last spring we had the camper out and when we powered up the converter all of the light were dim, but the converter was putting out 12 volts according to my voltmeter.
It took about 30 minutes for the lights to brighten up. I still have 12 volts. Do you think I have a bad convertor? Also, there is no battery in this camper. Great question! I would be happy to submit this to our team of experts for their input, but I need more information before I do that.
Hello Rhonda, Thank you for contacting us. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content. And without knowing the make, model and year of your RV our experts would not be able to assist.
If you are interested in becoming a member to RV Repair Club, please click on the special offer below:. If you have any further questions, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at Ended up replacing the converter.
The converter was underneath in the basement area behind sliding doors and underneath some venting tubes. We were told by the dealership to look in the basement and near the power cord.
The running lights are all tied together on the same circuit so you first want to start by checking the fuse for that circuit. If the fuse is fine you might have a wiring issue. They are all connected in parallel and if the first one has a bad connection preventing flow to the next light all of the others will go out. If the fuse is fine you will have to take out the lights and check for a bad connection. Typically the chain starts in the front and then goes to the rear so it is best to start at the front and work from there.
Converter not letting DC power Out. Problem DC coming in to Fuse block, only on side of fuse block had power with fuses out but 40 amp fuse in power went down to 5 or less amps, pulled it out back to Plug shore power in and you get dc power to battery and dc works. Installed new converter progressive pd same problem??? Thank you for contacting us.
The experts are going to need the make, model and the year of the RV before they are able to assist you with the question. Please reply back with that information and we will submit your question. If you have any other concerns, please contact us at , or chat with us on our site.
How do I tell if my converter is a multi stage battery charger? I recently was told that the battery were bad in my rv and it was because they were only 1 stage Either bulk or absorption. My batteries were 6v and both were dry. I recently purchase this rv used. These batteries were installed Aug You would have to get the model number off of your converter and search for the manual and see what charging cycles it offers.
There is nothing visual to indicate what the converter offers for charging. The only thing that would indicate this would be the manual and the best way to find it is to locate the model number of your converter and either search for the manual or contact the manufacture directly and ask what it does. Even smart chargers will dry out batteries over time though.
You have to make sure to check the water levels on a regular basis to prevent this from happening. More often during use. Turn anything else on and the voltage drops to like 90 and the AC compressor kicks out. Is it the converter that is either too small or going dead?
I believe that in general, I should always have close to v across the breakers. Really the best way to test the converter is checking the voltage. Turn everything off in the RV, lights, appliances etc.
Make sure there is good v AC voltage to the converter and then test for 12v DC voltage coming out of the converter. If there is anything less than Basement air runs fine off generator but the control panel on the inverter is flashing all the lights on and off.
Ceiling lights start out bright but gradually fade to dim after awhile. The ceiling lights come from the 12v system so it is possible there is an issue with the converter. Some converters are very touchy to incoming voltage so if the voltage from the generator fluctuates or is low it is possible for the other issues. It is best to test the v from the generator and make sure it is good and steady, also check the voltage when things are on and when the lights go dim and see if there is a change.
Most likely it is a voltage issue from the generator which would be from the voltage regulator. Yes that is fine to do. The converters are rated for that output and will only use what is needed to run the fuse panels. By adding more amps you are covering everything you have and have the option to add something later if needed.
Really the only option is to install a residential fridge but it will not have the DC option. The only fridges with the DC option are really small fridges, about the size of dorm fridges. This is because to use DC power it requires a high amp draw to heat the boiler and would drain the battery extremely fast for a larger fridge.
This does work better than using a DC fridge. They do have a newer style 12v from Norcold called the Polar series. These do operate only off of 12v with a compressor. They work really well and are 12v only so you can use them off the grid or while traveling. These can replace the larger size fridges. With either model you will already have the wiring needed on the back of the fridge. The distribution center does not have power unless I am plugged into shore power or the generator is running.
I believe I need a new converter. Wondering what kind of converter we need to replace the one in ore fourwinds motor home that is not working. Where can I get a manual for my particular unit. Hi Brad, Great question! I will need more information from you. Please resubmit your question and include the year, make and model of your RV? My camper is only getting 85 volts inside but it shows on the power pole why is it losing power.
This is usually an indication of a loose connection or break in the shore cord. Check the head of your shore cord and see if there are any signs of melted plastic, burnt terminals or even loose terminal prongs.
If so, it most likely is the cord. Make sure to check all connections to ensure they have a tight connection. Loose connections are more common then a cord failing but I have had to replace cords as well. Just make sure to check all connections first before replacing anything.
Just bought this upgrade 3 days ago and still have no 12 volt power without genset. All batteries are only a few months old. Hi Michael.
If the 12v is not working off of batteries you will want to look for an inline fuse from the batteries to the fuse panel inside. Typically they are by the batteries. You also want to check the ground connection from the batteries. The negative terminal on the battery will connect directly to the chassis frame at some point.
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